Sunday, January 31, 2010

Days186 - 189 Clearwater (Osprey), Lakeland (Us)

Our friends, Linda and Rob, whisked us off the boat and took us to Lakeland where we became landlubbers for a few days.

Lakeland is a pretty town, full of lakes as you might expect, with lots of swans and other waterfowl that I attempted to capture on camera with coaching from Rob, who is a talented professional photographer.

We spent a day at Disney's Animal Kingdom and were amazed by the detail that went into creating a convincing representation of the African savannah and the Kenyan marketplace. We saw giraffes, rhinos, elephants, and other animals whose exotic names I can't remember,  none of whom would stand still and pose while I focused my camera.  I recommend the buffet lunch at Tuskers Restaurant.  The meal included salads, roasts, seafood, and vegetable selections, some with African spices, and some not.  The four of us tried to taste everything.  We left pleasantly stuffed.



Another excursion took us to Tarpon Springs which is famous for its history of sponge diving and for its Greek population.  We ate at Paul's Restaurant where the food was good tasting, but the two men had sick stomachs after ingesting the scallops.










Riley enjoyed the visit in Lakeland, too.  He got to walk around Lake Hollingsworth and meet new friends.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Days 182 - 185 - Clearwater, FL


We are thoroughly enjoying our stay in Clearwater.  The weather has been the shorts and no jacket kind we expected to experience in Florida.  There's been a day of fog and a day of strong winds, but those are much easier to take when it's in the 70's and sunny. 


Our days have also been brightened by visits from friends.  Linda and Rob, who live in Lakeland, came to visit on Friday. Dolly and Alan, from Orlando, spent the weekend aboard.  Bev and Rich are vacationing in Florida and spent the afternoon on Saturday.  The thing I miss most on this trip are friends and family, so these visits are especially dear.


Clearwater Beach is a large expanse of soft, white sand that feels so good under bare feet.  It is lined with condos and hotels and dotted with umbrellas and sun lovers.  When Dolly, Bev and I took a stroll along the beach, we saw a sword juggler and fire dancer, then passed a wedding reception under a large, white tent.  We saw some dark clouds, but didn't take them seriously until we were being pelted by raindrops.  We took shelter and listened to a band until the rain subsided.


The mission of the Clearwater Marine Aquarium is the rescue and rehabilitation of sea creatures who are ill or injured.  Winter is a resident dolphin who received a prosthetic tail at the facility.  While at the aquarium, Dolly, Alan, Bob, and I watched a dolphin performance, observed an otter swimming on his back, watched sea rays swim in a shallow tank where visitors could touch their wings, and viewed a tank full of sharks and other fish.  We also saw a movie about Winter, and another about the volunteers who watch sea turtle nests on the beach and guide the babies to the water when they become confused by the lights on shore and head the wrong way. 


The harbormaster recommended the Post Corner Pizza, which is much more than it's name suggests.  The menu was complete with Greek and Italian dishes, seafood, and steaks.  The lasagna, eggplant parmesan, gyros, and grouper that were ordered at our table were all thoroughly enjoyed.  Our server, a young lady from Poland, was friendly and attentive.



Turtle sculptures greeted us in many places around Clearwater .  The golden one above is at the aquarium, and the small one is at the beach.




Thursday, January 21, 2010

Days 180 and 181 - Crossing the Gulf of Mexico

"Good morning, I said to Bob when the alarm went off.  "Today's the day of Bob and Carol's big adventure!"


A brief discussion with Buddy, the local weather expert, and reviews of the wind and wave predictions on the internet confirmed that this would be a good weather passage until tomorrow night.  We shared our fears and excitement with the other captains and crews making the crossing.  Then we cast off at 9:50 a.m. under a bright, sunny sky. Osprey glided out of the Carabelle Channel and through East Pass between St. George and Dog Islands.  She then pointed her bow into the open water of the Gulf of Mexico.

After the land slipped away and we were rocking on gentle swells, we fitted our safety harnesses, clipped them to the jack line Bob had rigged on deck and tried walking around.  It's just like walking a puppy, but you're the one on the leash!


We gave Riley the job of reporting on wave height.  When he's lying down, he keeps his paws in front of him if it's calm.  When the waves get higher, his paws angle out to the sides, so he can get a better grip.  We know the waves are really rough when his paws are splayed out to his sides, with his claws grasping the rug.



We spent hours watching the clusters of water drops leap out of the way of our bubbling wake as it crashed into the calm surface of the water.

At 2:50 p.m. we made contact with the boat Young America which had left port after us.  We agreed to continue our current course and speed for another hour to finish our engine test.  Then we'd slow down so Young America could catch up to be in visual range during the night.

At 3:05 the door rattled and the boat lurched.  Bob and I looked at each other with what-the-heck-was-that? expressions.  We felt as if a rogue wave had slammed us broadside, but the water was calm.  After the second occurrance, Bob figured out that it was sonic, not liquid, waves from the supersonic jets slicing the sky above.  There are several air force stations on the Gulf coast, so the Gulf is their training area.

The outside air was in the low 60's.

When we saw a dolphin jump near the starboard bow, I tried singing again.  This time I sang a song I used to sing to Aaron when he was a baby.  Another dolphin appeared, then another, and another, until there were 7                                                      


  - a big, spotted daddy, a mom, and their 5 children.  The two littlest ones jumped and jiggled just like any other little kids unable to keep still. I continued to sing the song over and over, and they swam along until I got tired of singing.










At 6:00 we watched the sun begin to dip as oranges and reds spread across the sky.  One long, low cloud hovered over the sun like the horizontal curtain over a stage.  As the lower edge of the sun melted into the water, the huge yellow ball bulged like jello.  Finally, the golden orb was gone, only pastel refracted light remained.

I was glad I had made tuna salad for dinner, because the generator would not cooperate, so I was not able to make hot food.   Without the generator, we couldn't use the heater either, so we kept bundled up in jackets.

When nightfall deepened, the real show began.  The crescent moon grinned like a Cheshire cat.  More stars than I've ever seen twinkled over our heads and in the mirror-like surface of the water.  Over the course of the night we were able to watch Orion move from east to west.  When he reached the horizon, he dipped his foot in the water, then continued to wade on in over his head.  His loyal dog, Canis Major followed right behind.


I said from the beginning I would not do the crossing, but there I was taking my turn at the helm, watching for blips on the radar after the moon set and it was too dark to see, watching our progress on the chart plotter, taking hourly positions and calling them to Young America on the radio while Otto (the auto-pilot) steered.  Bob and I each napped about an hour and a half.

One of our biggest concerns had been staying awake, but it was not a problem.  Our hourly radio position checks with Young America kept us busy and awake and made the time pass.  We charted each boat's position so we could see where we were in relation to each other. We drank coffee, sang to the radio (It reached out there - 40 miles off shore!), and danced.

We listened for radio transmissions from Stevedore, Annie Lee, and Floating Stone, the other boats doing the crossing.  Stevedore was within a 10 to 15 mile range, and we were able to communicate regularly, the other boats were further away, so we could hear them from time to time, but not speak with them.

Bob saw a shooting star and said, "Now the earth's mass is greater."

"Hmmm," I replied.  "More mass; more gravity.  That means I weigh more.  I don't like shooting stars!"

At the southern portion of our journey Stevedore warned that they began to see the small floats indicating crab pots when the water depth dipped to 30 feet.   We'd all been warned to expect these crab pots.  Their lines can foul the prop or a pot can slam into the hull and puncture it. Soon after, in 32 feet of water, we saw 2 floats go by to starboard.  After that we were both watching carefully because they were almost past by the time we saw them.


Clouds had begun to cover the sky by first light, so the sunrise was pretty, but not spectacular.  It was a blessing, because the glare from a vivid sunrise would have made it impossible to see the crab pots. 

We were starting to get the hang of maneuvering through the mine field of crab pots. The water was still flat, so they were clearly visible in the light. Suddenly, after 21 hours of working fine, the engine died.  Thankfully, it restarted successfully. We slowed down for awhile, then gradually increased the rpms back to normal.  Young America assured us they'd be there if we needed them, but we did not.  There were no further hiccups. 

Otto led us directly to light "1" at Clearwater Pass.  We entered Clearwater Bay, and at 8:55 pulled into our slip at Clearwater Municipal Marina.  Safe, secure, empowered, thrilled that we did this crossing successfully, and dog tired.

Speaking of the dog. . . there was one thing I had to do before I could sleep.  Our loyal,  companion got his walk.  Then we slept for 5 hours, went to dinner, and went back to bed until Thursday morning.

Day 179 - Second Half of the Day

The end of the trip to Carabelle was slow and anxious.  After five hours our engine died.  We were so sure that was all worked out!  It restarted, but this time even when we throttled back, it would cut out every 5 to 10 minutes, and hesitate to restart.  We had areas of 1 foot of water next to the channel, so drifting was not an option.  I stood at the bow ready to drop anchor in a instant if need be.  We called ahead to the marina to announce our distressed condition.  They cleared the gas dock for us, and there was a diesel mechanic on the scene.  He found the same problem that was diagnosed earlier, air in the system, coming from the same hose to the lift pump.  Apparently when the mechanic replaced the worn hose in Seneca, IL, he used the wrong brass fitting, and air was leaking in.  This fellow didn't have the correct fitting either, but sealed it so we could continue on.  We tied Osprey tight to the pilings and Captain Bob gave her a test under load until he was convinced that the fix would work. 

Should we still do the crossing without a shake-down cruise?  We decided to make the beginning of the crossing a shake-down.  We'll run the engine hard, and if it balks, we'll head back in.  The problem occurred after 5 hours, so we will have plenty of time to return to port if we aren't comfortable with its performance.  Here's a photo of Bob signing away our life savings to the mechanic.

And then, there was a beautiful sunset. . . surely a good omen!

Monday, January 18, 2010

Day 179 - Carabelle

We're having a heat wave!  It's noon and already 61 degrees and partly sunny.  Osprey is stretching her legs and doing her warm up exercises on this passage to Carabelle to prepare for our crossing tomorrow night.


A whole crowd of pelicans gathered for our good-by from Port St. Joe at sunrise (7:30).  We aren't sure if they were partying because we were leaving or just wishing us well.


I saw just one dolphin today.  A boater had told us that his wife sang to them and the dolphins stayed alongside as long as she sang.  I tried it.  He bolted!

When we arrive in port, we'll closely watch the weather, then get a good night's and morning's rest before we brew up plenty of coffee with caffeine and choose some lively music CD's to keep us awake all night.  We'll release the bonds holding Osprey and let her do what she was built to do.  Wish us luck!

P.S.  I keep meaning to ask if the font size of this blog is large enough.  I would appreciate some comments on this.  Thanks.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Day 176 - 178 - Mini Rendezvous @ Port St. Joe



The sky was dark gray, the rain beat down in diagonal sheets, and the wind blew ahowl, but the Loopers' spirits were as bright as our colorful foul weather gear when we gathered for the mini-rendezvous and met with boaters we haven't seen since  that anchorage in Alabama or that marina in Kentucky.  Our gracious harbor hosts, Ray and Patsy Whitney, planned this gathering and finagled funding from the city of Port St. Joe and local businesses, so it was free to Loopers.  "Free stuff" included a shrimp boil on Friday evening and continental breakfast Saturday morning, as well as lots of prizes.  The Captain and I won a 5 year membership to the American Great Loop Cruising Association.   We only paid for the restaurant meals: a shrimp, ribs, and fish all you-can-eat buffet at Dockside Grille here at the marina (a steal for $8) and a prime rib, fish, or chicken dinner with all the trimmings at Sunset Coastal Grille.

Note the lovely centerpieces made by Katie Stone and yours truly.





The sessions included:
*  an informational and entertaining talk about the crossing from Carabelle to Tarpon Springs, FL, from our favorite weather guru, Tom Conrad (He's the one mentioned in an earlier blog who claims to use a heron for his weather statistics.)
* a review by Rob Roy Rice of favorite stopping places from Tarpon Springs to the Keys with an addendum about the Bahamas and Exumas.
* a presentation on boating safety by the Coast Guard.  We were told that, yes they can and do board boats for any reason or no reason at all.  They will also answer our call when we're in trouble.  It's reassuring to know their powerful radio towers enable them to hear us when we're "way our there" on the Gulf.
* a lively talk about boating by an editor of Power and Motoryacht magazine.
 
During and after the rendezvous the captains and crews compared stories, true and otherwise, and planned the next and most challenging leg of our journey.  We've been here so long and treated so well, it's hard to leave Port St. Joe, but it's time to move on.   We are counting on a fair weather window to allow us safe passage on our crossing  to Clearwater Tuesday night (The preliminary estimate is 22 hours for this voyage.), so we'll travel to Carabelle Monday to be in place and ready to go.



Monday, January 11, 2010

Day 172 - Port St. Joe, FL


It warmed up today to the mid forties, so Riley and I went for a walk along the beach.  We caught some egrets admiring their reflections in a quiet pond hidden in the grass, a blue heron pretending to be a statue in the hope we wouldn't notice him, and some killdeer etching designs in the sand with their feet. We watched the smoke spread in the distance from a fire in the direction of Apalachicola.  Riley sniffed out the messages his peers had left in the bushes.  I searched for seashells.



A news report on the television proved how smart some animals are.  Hundreds of manatees gathered at the discharge canal at the Apollo Beach Power Plant to warm up when the waters in the Gulf dipped below 68 degrees.  Here's a link with a photo:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://z.about.com/d/marinelife/1/0/x/1/-/-/manateesapollobeach2-500x375.jpg&imgrefurl=http://marinelife.about.com/od/watchingandphotography/ig/Florida-Manatee-Images/Manatees-at-Apollo-Beach--FL.htm&usg=__bRPMvrf9FQToaHComuhFmzcMv9I=&h=375&w=500&sz=95&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=9OBJnOldj3faVM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmanatees,%2BFlorida,%2Bpower%2Bplant%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den