Days 124 & 125 Iuka, MS

Happy Halloween!

From Captain Bob, Admiral carol, and First Mate Riley

Days 121 - 123 Aqua Harbor, Iuka, MS

We traveled back in time to April, 1862, when we toured Shiloh Battlefield. At the visitors' center we saw a video that described the bloody two-day battle that was fought there. Then we drove through the site. We stopped to view the Hornets' Nest where the Confederates surrounded and overran the Union troops on the first day before they were forced back on the second day when the Union army's reinforcements arrived. We saw the Peach Orchard where bullets in the trees caused the blossoms to "rain down like snow." We observed monuments and read plaques, viewed the burial trenches of the confederate soldiers, and walked around the National Cemetery where the Union soldiers were interred. When we noticed wild turkeys and deer observing our movements, we wondered if their ancestors had observed the sad segment our country's history that occurred in this place.

Nearby Corinth, MS was also important in the Civil War, as we learned at The Civil War Interpretive Center. The once thriving town was ravaged by the battle between the north and south for control of its strategic location as a junction of several major railroads.

Bronze casts of artifacts of the war . . . hats . . . weapons . . . a folding knife . . . clothing . . . were scattered along the walk to the door of the museum as though the soldiers had just recently passed through.

After our two days of history education, we relaxed with Richard and Laura of the Laura Lee with dinner and the light comedy, Couples Retreat.

The clouds continue their dark wet cover, but just for a few minutes the sun seared through to color the dawn.

Day 120 - Aqua Harbor, Iuka, MS

Here we are in Aqua Harbor, a full service marina in a cozy bay surrounded by fall color. We are enjoying our second day of sunshine and warmer (in the sixties) weather. Yesterday, I actually sported a tee-shirt without a jacket in the afternoon.

We had a pleasant 59 mile cruise here. Passing almost no commercial traffic, we traveled part of the way on the Tennessee River, pulled into the gaping chamber of Pickwick Lock for a 50-foot lift, and later turned into the Yellow River which will lead us to the Tenn-Tom Waterway. The reduction in commercial traffic was a bonus that made travel simpler. The water is no longer thick, muddy, brown. We can see the hull through it now. The surface glimmered when the afternoon sun smiled down on it from time to time.

Since we were moving against the current, our speed over the ground was slow, so we passed the time choosing our lottery home from the multitude of possibilities along the shore that appeared larger and more luxurious around each subsequent bend of the river.

With our view open to the east across the water, I set the alarm to watch the sunrise, but was thwarted by a pea soup fog that blocked the sun until it was already high in the sky. I took a picture, but it looked like a photo of gray construction paper. I snapped these two shots as the morning progressed.


The spider web caught my eye as the sun glinted off the dew clinging to the strands.


Bob spent yesterday working on the generator. Our last night at at anchor was in the 30's and the generator would not keep running, so we had no heater. Brrr! We've been trying unsuccessfully to rent a car to visit the Shiloh Battlefield, but so far the Enterprise dealer hasn't any available, and we are unwilling to pay their exorbitant $50 fee to pick us up from the marina. (So much for those "We pick you up" ads!)

We'll be here a few days before continuing on. We are looking forward to entering the area that is colored gold on the weather map signifying 70+ degree temperatures. We're hoping that happens around Tupelo.

Fog

When we awoke Wednesday morning, October, 21, we were inside a cloud so thick the nearby boats looked like mystic mirages. We waited for the fog to dissipate and ventured out of our protected cove. We could see a bank of fog past Cuba Landing Bridge. As we passed under it, one side was shining in bright sunlight; the other was still in fog.

Day 113 - 115 Paris Landing, Buffalo, Clifton, TN

After 2 1/2 weeks at Grand Rivers we turned our bow south to continue our winding meanderings toward Mobile Bay. Once we left the wide expanse of Kentucky Lake at the northern end of the Tennessee River, bluffs of time- and weather-sculpted limestone and rolling hills have lined the banks. Mother Nature has her painting crew working full time now spreading color over the trees that rustle and cast off their leaves in the breeze.

Against this scenic backdrop, we've witnessed vultures swooping and circling with a slight waggle in their wings. We've seen the wide wingspan and snowy-white heads and tails of eagles soaring above the treetops with their wings held strait. Ospreys have been more elusive, but we've seen their nests, like the one at mile marker 99.7.

Other animals grace the stage of our days, as well. A chorus line of green turtles averaging a foot in diameter stood on a podium of driftwood watching us pass. We saw cows come down the the river's edge to take their bows as we floated by.

The water level is about 5 feet above winter pool, so some of the trees are wading offshore. We've heard stories of the vagaries of the water levels and seen the evidence as we pass homes on stilts or on rollers fitted to poles, so they can float if need be. At Riverstone Marina there's a fuel pump on a high platform with a ladder. We figure that's either for high water or high fuel prices.

As we wound our way along, we were passed by a blue and white cargo ship the length of a football field named the Delta Mariner. This custom-designed ship travels down the Tennessee and across the Gulf of Mexico carrying Delta rockets to Cape Canaveral. http://www.space.com/missionlaunches/launches/delta_mariner_010705-1.html

Passing a Confederate flag flying red and proud along the river, we knew that we are truly in the south . We were advised by a Kentuckian that, "The war is not over! And there was nothing civil about it." He called it "the War of Northern Aggression." He did admit that Kentucky had ties to both the North and the South in the Civil War.

Monday night we spent at Paris Landing. A group of Loopers invited us to join them for dinner at the Lodge at the State Park. Expecting a log structure with a simple menu, we were pleasantly surprised to see a modern hotel and banquet facility with tables of salads, entrees, vegetable dishes and desserts in a generous buffet. All for only $8.95! The server surprised Bob by bringing him a dessert of brownies drenched in caramel and chocolate syrup, strawberries and whipped cream, topped with a birthday candle.

Bob's birthday was again celebrated at our anchorage in Blue Creek next to Cuba Landing Marina. The captains and admirals of the sailboat Laura Lee and the trawler Miss Ruby dinghied over, and we ate a giant brownie with a tea light candle. I had baked it for ten minutes when I noticed the water that was supposed to be added still sitting in the measuring cup atop the stove, so I was relieved that it was still chewy and chocolaty.

We are currently spending two nights at Riverstone Marina near Clifton, TN. It has no showers or amenities other than fuel and pumpout facilities, but it's a picturesque, quiet marina adjacent to a hilly, wooded area being developed as a residential community. Thunderstorms were predicted for today, but so far haven't materialized.

Next, we'll head for Aqua Marina on the Tenn-Tom Waterway in Iuka, MS.

Day110 - 112 Grand Rivers, KY

After a chilling, rain-blasted week, our last weekend at Green Turtle Bay was brightened by visitors, Brian and Jan. We had a wonderful time of conversation and good food and enjoyed the charm of the area. Saturday, Jan and I began a walk to town, but on second thought, opted to accept a ride in a warm car with Bob and Brian. A Sunday morning fog inspired us to bring out the cameras and take some photos. Then, just before our treasured visit had to end, the long awaited sun broke out spreading sparkles and glittering reflections all around. We'll be leaving tomorrow and heading toward Pickwick Lake.

Day 105 - Grand Rivers, KY

For a town of 350 or so people, Grand Rivers, KY puts on a great parade and Hunters' Moon Festival. We boarded the quaint little trollley at the marina and rode it to town where the competing aromas of barbecued pork and chicken, funnel cakes, and cotton candy tempted our senses. We chose the roasted chicken, heaped with buttery vegetables and baked beans.

We picked our way through the vendor's booths to the parade. Rows of golf carts (used as viewing platforms) and people lined the street as the band, floats, dancers, veterans, engines, and other vehicles made their way down the street, followed by the ruddy-faced, jelly-bellied Santa and Mrs. Claus.

I bought a pumpkin to decorate Osprey in the spirit of the season, then hoped the trolley would come by soon so Bob and I wouldn't have to decide who got to carry our little burden. Luckily a fellow boater with a car happened by and drove us and Mr. Jack O'Lantern back to Green Turtle Bay.

We had heard rave reviews about the local theater, so we joined a group of boaters to celebrate the evening with laughing, clapping, and singing along at the Badgett Playhouse Variety Show http://www.grandriversvariety.com/. Eight very talented musicians, singers, and dancers presented music of many genres from the 1950's forward. We thoroughly enjoyed it.

Afterward we were too energized to end the evening so we packed into the yacht club and socialized and danced for awhile.

I'm still getting used to the concept of a dry county. At the yacht club, people bring their own bottle of liquor and hand it over to the server. It is held in one of the rows of lockers with a label identifying the owner until the guest requests a drink. It is then served with a bill for the mix and the service.

The sun has finally reappeared, so the captain and I plan to tour around in the dinghy this afternoon.

Days 101 - 103 - Grand Rivers, KY

Overheard from one tow captain to another:

If you can't get by me right here you got problems!

I've mentioned my admiration for the skill of the tow captains before. They can push 15, 20, even 30 barges around tight bends in the river or into a lock without scarfing the sides or mowing down any small craft in their vicinity. We hear them communicate with each other all day long as we stay tuned to channel 13 on the marine radio. They are sometimes hard to understand because their voices are often gravelly and we aren't used to their jargon or southern drawl. This statement, however, was clear and gave us a good chuckle. Later we heard the recipient of the comment respond to a question:

I don't want to say anything; I don't want to get scolded again.

We are still in Green Turtle Bay. While being deluged for the third day in a row with rain falling with abandon from the dark grey ceiling overhead, we are doing routine maintenance on the boat, catching up on email, laundry, etc. Bob wisely decided to postpone polishing the fiberglass on the bridge with the electric buffer until after the rain stops. Zzzzzzzt!

On Wednesday evening, eight of us took the shuttle to Patti's Restaurant in town and devoured
their acclaimed 2-inch thick pork chops, spinach salad with bacon dressing, bread baked in a flower pot, and mile-high pies. It's a dry county so, one of the couples brought the wine, and the restaurant provided the corkscrew (although we were required to do the uncorking) and the glasses. There was a surprise in the restroom, which caused several of us to screech when we opened the door. I've attached the photo. I hope to get back there before we leave.

To prove that sailors are a hearty bunch, the cocktail party yesterday was not cancelled due to rain and cold. We donned our foul-weather gear with heavy layers beneath, carefully covered our hors d'oeuvres with plastic, and met in the gazebo. We watched one couple arrive in a dinghy with an umbrella. We agreed unanimously, they are true boaters!

The town is celebrating their Hunters' Moon Festival with craft show, parade, and other events.
We're hoping for fair weather tomorrow, so we can stay dry and warm while attending.

100 Loopy Days! - Grand Rivers, KY

We can't even believe we're actually on this amazing journey, and here we are celebrating the 100th day!!!

After 6 days without our feet touching land, we are happy to be in the beautiful Green Turtle Bay Marina on Lake Barkley in Grand Rivers, Kentucky http://www.greenturtlebay.com/. We've already made use of the fitness center with an indoor pool, saunas, and exercise classes; strolled over Tortuga Pond on the boardwalk; ridden our bikes over the rolling hills to town to check out the grocery store and antique shops; kayaked in the large marina basin; had dinner at the yacht club and breakfast at the restaurant; and shared stories at couple of gatherings with fellow Loopers.

Before this stop, we were out of range of the Internet, so here's the update:


Day 91 - Hoppie's Marine Services, Kimmswick, MO
We left Alton Marina and dropped a total of 35 feet via the Mel Price and Chain of Rocks Locks. We spent about 6 hours on the Muddy (Yes, it's true!) Mississipi and arrived at Hoppie's Marine Services. This marina consists of barges tied to the rocks on the side of the river.

When several of us walked into Kimmswick to visit the Blue Owl Restaurant, we couldn't resist taking a table and treating our taste buds to the pies. The apple pie looks like it has a missile on top the apples and crust are stacked so high! I had to bring Bob back a small one to enjoy.

Six Looper boats were expected to dock for the night. When they were all safely tied up, Fern, Hoppie's wife who knows more about the Mississippi than anyone, gathered us in an open air "salon" on one of the barges and filled us with information about hazards, anchorages, and other pertinent facts. The one tidbit that made the greatest impression on me was that we should always have protection from an island or wing dams when we anchor because the barges sometimes break apart from their tows and run amok with the current. An encounter with one of those could certainly ruin a good night's sleep!

Day 92 - Kaskaskia Lock and Dam, IL On the Kaskaskia River, boats can tie up for the night on the outside of the Lock approach wall for no charge, so one after another six boats came in and we shuffled the early arrivals to fit in the newcomers. There was no way to get ashore, but we could walk on the jetty to visit with the other boaters. After a lot of laughter, drinks, hors d'oeuvres, and camaraderie aboard Frankly Terryfic, we had a secure and comfortable night, safe and secure between the huge cement buttresses that support the lock wall.

Day 93 - Little Diversion Channel, MO
Little Diversion is a narrow channel that is lushly wooded and filled with the sounds of rustling leaves and cicadas. We nestled in with anchors bow and stern, so we wouldn't swing into the other 5 boats anchored there. The sun said good-by at the end of the day in a blur of red straight up the river from us, and we had a restful sleep. Morning arrived under a heavy mantle of fog which quickly dissipated, and again we were on our way.

Day 94 - Boston Bar, IL
It was a quick 4-hour trip to Boston Bar. We followed Frankly Terryfic and Frances Ray to a spot above the highway bridge and set the anchor for the night.

Day 95 - Little Chain Bar, KY
We entered the Ohio River and crossed our first wicket dam today. These dams have wooden gates that are raised and lowered to control the flow of water. Luck was with us and the wickets were down, so we could float right over them. The water got a bit turbulent in the area, but we didn't have to lock through.
There was a lot of communication between the three-boat convoy we traveled in because Little Chain Bar is under water. We weren't sure it was going to be a suitable anchorage. When we arrived, we found deep-enough water on the Kentucky side. We were right in the river, outside the channel. We pointed our bow into the current and awaited the thunderstorm that had been forecast. We counted the seconds between the lightning and thunder as the storm approached, but they increased again before the storm reached us. No storm, just wind lurching us to and fro while the agitated river slammed incessantly into the transom all night long. The admiral and captain started in the morning with tired, baggy eyes and one of us was a little cranky.

Day 96 - Cumberland Island Towhead, KY
We passed Metropolis where Superman, as you know, was from. I'm sure the Daily Planet had an article announcing our passage.

The wickets were down on our second (and last) Ohio River dam, so again we went right over without locking. As we passed Paducah, the Tennessee River snaked off to our right and tow traffic increased to dizzying numbers. The captain remained remarkably calm as one tow overtook us then pulled off to the side, one ahead warned us not to pass because there was another coming downriver, and there was an additional one inching up behind. A staccato tapping of the foot was his only evidence of tension, as Bob skillfully guided us through the maze of boats.

I have to put in a complimentary word for the tow captains. They have without fail been courteous and helpful, advising us when to pass or not, which side is safer, offering information about what's ahead in the river, and always wishing us a safe journey.

Anchoring that night at the Cumberland Towhead caused your already sleep-deprived captain and admiral another restless night. We slipped in past Frankly Terryfic and Frances Ray about half way along the island, set the plow anchor, and had dinner. Hmmm. The trees seemed to be moving. But, of course, it was Osprey. We set the anchor again and it dragged again. We set it the third time, and before it had time to go AWOL on us again, Bob set a second, danforth, anchor off the starboard bow. He slept on the settee, checking our position regularly on the chart plotter and out the window with bits and bursts of sleep in between.

We were anxious to weigh anchor and get out of Dodge in the morning, but by then the wind and current had twisted and turned the boat enough to create a rat's nest out of the two anchor rodes. Our two companion boats patiently waited while we - Bob mostly - untangled the snarl of chain and rope and the danforth and hoisted it onto the deck.

Maybe it was the beauty and relative quiet of the narrow, scenic Cumberland River, but our sleeplessness was soon forgotten as we watched Osprey, vultures, and eagles glide in wide circles leading us to our greatly-anticipated destination.

One lock to go. One of the Loopers was tied up and ready to be locked through when our three-boat entourage called in. It was our good fortune that the lockmaster decided to wait for us and we sailed right in, put lines around the floating bollards, and were lifted 57 feet. Right around the bend was Green Turtle Bay Marina. We pulled up to the fuel dock. We are so lucky not that Osprey, slow as she is, isn't a fuel glutton; we only needed a pump-out. Before the dock hand had donned his rubber gloves, Riley and I disembarked and were bounding toward solid, not rocking land and grass

When we found our slip, we were delighted that there were fellow boaters lined up on the dock to grab our lines and help secure Osprey to her new temporary home. We immediately called a one-day moratorium on boat chores,took real showers with plenty of hot water, and went out to dinner. We don't plan to move for at least a week.